33 Comments on “Phase 2 Halti Heel (K9-1.com)”

  1. do you guys train with Mendota slip collar…if so, can you guys pls do a video on heel with the Mendota slip collar including corrections…thank you

  2. It used to be that for an obedience routine if the handler wanted the dog to heel they would start off with their left leg. If the handler wanted the dog to stay they started out with their right leg. This acted as a double cue to the dog so to speak. This handler, and others that I have observed use both legs interchangeably. Did this change and I didn’t get the memo?

    1. Helen Mallazzo

      No, or didn’t change. In competition level obedience it’s still left foot first for auto-follow, and still right foot first for a delayed heel. For turns, left turn = right leg swings first, right turn = left leg twists first.

      I think this is more for the average pet-owner and/or non-competition level heeling.

    1. Laura Kondrick Lmfao. My 4 month old Australian cattle dog is not motivated by treats or food. I got a tough one on my hands

    2. Laura Kondrick

      A wild pup wouldn’t go straight into a Phase-2 process. They’d have to start out with shaping (or as some call it: Phase 1) 😛

    3. Christopher Gonzalez it is simple problem…study the reinforment /punishment box and with a bit of common sense u can achieve your goal

  3. but your doggie is so attentive looking upward. mine looks all over like a 360 degree turn except me. he is a 1 and a half year golden i adopted recently. is that still possible. high octane energy level, bah!

    1. brainfreeze

      To get your dog looking up at you while heeling comes from usually teaching it that to begin with. In competition level heeling you’ll want that for sure.

      But, it’s done like this: first things first, you need to teach your dog to focus. (If you don’t know how, look it up, there’s tons of vids on it). Then, once your dog is doing great with focusing, then start shaping the “heel” while having him focus on you. If it helps, you can start ofc heeling with a treat or their favorite toy in your hand up by your chest. Then, as you take a couple steps and they’re looking at you, instantly reward them. The times they start to look away or etc, use a “no word” and make kissy noises, clicks, or w/e to get them looking at you again. Then, when they look st you during a step or two, INSTANTLY reward them yet again. Then, gradually over time, take more steps and require longer lengths of focus before rewarding. By the end of a few weeks, you’ll have them looking at you fulltime and only reward at the end of heeling.

      Just remember to get the dog to learn how to “focus” first, otherwise it’ll prove to be very difficult to get the rest of this down pat. 🙂

      Your dog’s focus should be at least around 30 seconds or more (a full 60+ seconds is the desireable goal) before moving onto focused heeling.

      Hopefully this’ll help ya out some! 🙂

  4. Why would you want to wrap something around your dog’s nose and then pull on it? I never did that to my dogs and they still learned to heel – and probably faster because I taught it in a way that made them actually WANT to work with me.

    1. I agree no need for compicated things like the haltie and E collar. Just like with horses people using stud chains and bits. Animals comply so much better with out such complicated things that could confuse or cause pain

    2. Lord Vader I taught mine to heel with lots of treats and repetition. Every time I take out trash I make them heel to walk me there. When we walk together in the house, I use heel. If they don’t heel when I want them to heel, I just say, “eh” which is my sound for no, that’s wrong and they remember their desired behavior

    3. You have never trained a high drive or uninterested dog, then. All dogs learn differently? this is negative reinforcement (not punishment) crossed with positive reinforcement. This is exactly what u just described. Honestly, all tools are equal ans if you have dog that pulls or is reactive, a flat collar is going to hurt them.

    4. You arent supposed to pull on it. Head halters are only there to let the dog have more of a sense of the movements your making. They are nothing like muzzles and they dont hurt the dog in any way.

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